Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
